"Never Again"






Friday we spent a couple of hours at the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site.

When we got off the bus packed with school groups heading to the site, we walked into the entrance tent, where you could buy tickets for various tours, audioguides and film documentaries. We overheard an unfortunate, but telling, conversation just in front of us:

English-speaking woman to Dachau memorial site staff person: "Is the film good?"

Dachau staff guy pauses, looks at the woman briefly and gives this firm but compassionate reply: "It's important. It may not be 'good', but it's important."

Hmm, we thought. Good on him for choosing the higher ground of not discriminating on the basis of ignorance.

Regarding Dachau itself, we still have a lot of processing to do in terms of how it impacted us personally. For now, suffice to say it caused us to think and reflect on many levels. The following is from the printed guide we received:

On March 22, 1933, a few weeks after Adolf Hitler had been appointed Reich Chancellor, a concentration camp for political prisoners was set up in Dachau. This camp served as a model for all later concentration camps and as a 'school of violence' for the SS men under whose command it stood. In the twelve years of its existence over 200,000 person from all over Europe were imprisoned here and in the numerous subsidiary camps. More than 43,000 of them died. On April 29 1945, American troops liberated the survivors.

On a happier note, on Saturday we had a wonderful time in Augsburg, where we went to the home of some of Colin & Marlene's friends, Jan & Lee, for a great brunch and fun conversation. In the evening we sat and watched episodes of The Office and Creature Comforts, laughing together while lightning and thunder showers raged around us. More metaphorical food for thought, in light of the previous day's experience. We have much for which to be grateful.

In a few minutes we will leave Colin & Marlene's to embark on the next phase of our journey -- to Austria! First stop: Salzburg -- birthplace of Mozart and all things Sound of Music. Not sure how much opportunity we'll have to post pictures over the next 9 days, so enjoy these ones while you got 'em! Aufwiedersehn until next time...

Nördlingen and Dinkelsbühl (or Meteor Town and The Benevolent Swedes)










So Thursday we took an enjoyable daytrip with C & M to two medieval Bavarian towns. Nördlingen was built in the crater of a meteor. The gigantic gates date back to medieval times, and you can walk atop the wall that surrounds the whole of Nördlingen. Pretty cool.

Then it was off to Dinkelsbühl (which is really fun to say with the correct German pronunciation). The place is simply gorgeous. The origins of the town are also interesting. While the name is written about as early as the 1200s, its later history is what most people remember. In the 1600s the city changed hands eight times due to attacks from various warring peoples. In around 1632 it was the Swedes who came along and took over. According to legend, the children of Dinkelsbühl begged their attackers for mercy, and so while the Swedish did indeed take over the city, they spared the lives of the conquered people. Even more curious is that the people of Dinkelsbühl still hold an annual festival celebrating the fact that they surrendered and weren't destroyed by the Swedes.

In other news not directly related to travelling but nonetheless important, we watched the series finale of Studio 60 last night with Colin & Marlene, whom we were pleased to learn were fellow fans of this remarkable show. What an ending. Now we continue lamenting that it only lasted one season.

Bavaria 101











It´s been a great couple of days so far here in Bavaria.

Tuesday we hung out with Colin & Marlene and Alexander, their baby, in Augsburg. On our way to the town centre, we walked along part of an old city wall that has been there for many hundreds of years. Besides simply walking and a bit of shopping, we sat in the large platz (a square -- not to be confused with the delicious fruit-based dessert many of us Mennos have grown to love) and sampled some local fare. I had weisswurst (white sausage served in a bowl of water in which it has been boiled) with sweet mustard, a pretzel, and a nice Bavarian wheat beer. Mmmm. Terri even tried -- and enjoyed -- the weisswurst! In the evening we had a very nice meal at Colin & Marlene´s, and then watched Jesus Camp, which is a billion times scarier than any new kind of Bavarian dining experience.

Wednesday Terri and I went into Munich to see some sights and meet up with Christian, a friend I met at Taize last summer. We met at Marienplatz, which is the very center of old Munich. From there we walked to the Hofbrauhaus, another Munich landmark, for lunch. The previous evening, Colin told me that if I wanted a truly barbarian Bavarian food experience, I should try schweinshaxe, which is a pig knuckle. So, I tried it, along with ein masse of dunkel (dark wheat beer), which I figured would help make it more bearable if I didn´t actually enjoy it. Well, both were great. The brass band was pretty good, too.

In the afternoon we hiked the100-metres-tall tower of Alte Peter, which may be the oldest church in Munich, to see a pretty amazing view of the city. Then we went to the Alte Pinakothen (old art gallery) to see a wonderful collection of art and walk around in some air conditioning for a little over an hour. In the evening we met up with Christian again. He took us to the Englisches Garten -- the largest park in Munich -- bigger than Central Park in New York. There we went to a place called the Chinese Tower, around which is wrapped the second biggest beer garden in Munich. Apparently there is seating for about 7500 people. What an experience. Had currywurst -- which is exactly what it sounds like. VERY tasty. Afterwards we took the U-bahn back to Marienplatz, from which we walked back to the train station to get back to Augsburg. Another great day. Enjoy the pics!

Wir sind im Deutschland!

We said au revoir/ciao/auf wiedersehn to Pam & Chad yesterday morning in Milan. Then we were off to the train station from whence we began a long, HOT day riding trains with air conditioning systems that were sporadic at best. After missing our connection to Munich in Verona due to a late departure from Milan, we finally arrived in Augsburg around 7:30pm, where Germany in general and Colin in particular met us with a warm welcome.

You will surely notice, even after the most cursory of scroll-downs, that we have finally been able to add some pictures to our blog. Hope you enjoy them. We are looking forward to a wonderful week at Colin & Marlene´s in and around Augsburg & Munich.

Bocelli was made for fireworks.









Hey all. We're writing from a sweatshop-like internet point in a very hot Milan at the moment. Our butts are sweating just from sitting here. Net access in the past few days hasn't been too prevalent, or cheap, so most of our web time has been spent sending British Airways new contact information with which to track us down. A brief update regarding that, then onto 'some fun stuff we've been doing out here'.

The Hopeful News I wrote about five days ago has, sadly, turned a bit less hopeful. It is now Sunday and we're in Milan for one night. Pam & Chad head home tomorrow and we'll be off to Augsburg, Germany. Our bags weren't waiting for us at our hotel when we checked in this afternoon. So we still don't really have any clear idea of when or where we'll be reunited with out stuff. One silver lining is that we have been slated for a class upgrade on our return flights to Canada (subject to availability, of course). So we'll see if that works out. The best news is that we're still smiling and laughing a lot, despite the periodic rant against terrorist plots in general, and British Airways in particular.

OK, so what have we been up to?

One of our favorite evenings in Genova was when our host Andrea drove us up a very steep, windy road to the top of the seaside village of Arenzano, where, lo and behold, there was this GORgeous view and a really popular pizzeria (as evidenced by scads of little Fiats, Smart cars and motorcycles jammed into the tiny parking lot). We had lovely food and drinks, and then drove down to the seaside, where we found gelato (which we've been having at least once a day here in Italy) and walked along the Mediterranean.

In Rome, as mentioned in a previous post, we saw quite a bit of stuff in a relatively short period of time. On our last night, we thought, 'Hey, let's find a hip area of Rome we haven't discovered yet.' So the aforementioned Frommer's Rome guide told us about an area where 'Rome's night life is at it's festive best. In summer, cafes spill out into the streets, and there's live jazz, jam sessions, shops,...the street is blocked off from 8:30pm to 2am... (etc, etc)'. Well, we found our way there without too much trouble (the bus system in Rome is cheap, but it's a bit of a chore to figure it out. We did pretty well, though, if we do say so ourselves). But we decidedly did NOT find a hip, happening night spot. We found graffitti-laden walls, dark alleys, abandoned shops, and cats.

Thanks, Frommer's.

OK, on one corner there were a few cafes open, so we decided to stay there and enjoy a meal. Interesting that it ended up being probably our best dining experience in Rome. Tons of good traditional Italian fare for a reasonable price, and a server that looked like Jean Reno (not that Chad or I cared about that). His English was pretty good, so we asked him about it. Jean Reno said, 'I had a girlfriend from San Diego once.' A few minutes later he said, 'I also had one from London.' Gotta love those Italian studs.

On to Venice...
We weren't prepared for the challenge of navigating one's way on foot in Venice. (Did I mention our Rick Steves books were in our luggage?) But, equipped with a little Venice map someone gave us while in the Cinque Terre, we did OK (Editorial comment from Terri: 'Well, Nelson did ok. Thank goodness for my patient husband.') The highlight of our time -- besides gelato and a good restaurant we stumbled across -- hands down, was last evening. Upon arrival on Friday, we were told that this was a pretty big festival weekend in Venice, second only to Carnivale. We had no idea. 'There will be fireworks on Saturday, with lots of people and music and dancing.' COOL, we thought. What a way to (nearly) end our time in Italy, and the leg of the journey in which we are with our good friends Pam & Chad.

So we showed up about two hours before the fireworks were scheduled to start, and the crowds had already begun to amass and sit down to claim their firework-watching territory. There were a TON of people there. Wish we could show you pictures. Around 11:30pm, the music started and they finally began. Here are a few tunes we remember from the soundtrack:

- Richard Strauss, Thus Spake Zarathustra (you all know this one, whether you recognize the title or not...Google it!)
- Celine Dion & Andrea Bocelli, Prayer (oh my goodness, I almost wept while this one played...all those people from all over the world, together spellbound by color and light bursting in the sky...unbelievable...words cannot describe...)
- U2 & Mary J. Blige, One (this version of this song has never sounded better)
- Jerry Lee Lewis, Great Balls of Fire (for obvious reasons)
- Stuff from GREASE: Greased Lightning, Summer Nights

Well, for a solid half hour they captured the attention of thousands. It was probably the most memorable -- if not the best -- fireworks show we've ever seen. What an experience.

I guess that covers things for now. Maybe in Germany we'll be able to upload some pictures, so keep watching and reading (and commenting...we love comments...)!

Ciao!

Hopeful News & Memorable Quotes

HOPEFUL NEWS

This just in...we heard today that our bags were apparently sent to Milan on Monday evening, and will be delivered to us from there. Where, exactly, we don't know. But they have our Rome and Venice accommodation info, so things are looking up. We'll keep you posted. Thanks for your prayers.

By the way, had a great not-too-hot day walking around historical Rome today. Saw the Colosseum, the Forum, the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain. After I finish this post, it's gelato time. Woohoo!

MEMORABLE QUOTES

OK, so I tried to make this a 'separate page element', but this computer is in Italian, and I can't figure it out by where the buttons are (talk about giving away our true blog rookie-ness). Anyway, here's some memorable stuff said by us or people we've encountered...

- "I've got a splitting headache this morning. You'll have to forgive me if I'm not up to my usual sparkliness." - Alison, our host in Greenwich. This is more delightful if read out loud with a Scottish lilt. Try it!

...and later in the car...

Pam (to Alison): How's your headache?
Alison: It's still there. Thank you for reminding me I have a headache.

£££££

Chad (to Terri -- while evacuated at London Heathrow): They're handing out water to women and children over there.
(Terri leaves, then returns about a minute later...)
Terri (to Chad): OK where? 'Over there' is a big place.

£££££

Brit Police officer after about 4 hours of evacuation: Anyone wanna be a police officer? I'm sick and tired of it.

£££££

Chad: Pam is my rock. I'm glad I have Pam.
Nelson: We're glad you have Pam too.

£££££

All of us: Rick Steves is the best. (This realization came to us after taking time to read a lame Frommer's Rome travel guide and lamenting the loss of our bags once again...which of course contained three trip-relevant volumes of our Rick Steves collection.)

£££££

"I think God sent this cloud cover just for me today. Jesus is my sunscreen." - Nelson, as we walked toward the Colosseum to stand in line and (eventually) get in.

Ciao from Roma!




Well, had a nice relaxing train ride from Genova this morning -- 5 hours long. After some walking around Rome's MASSIVE train station, we found our way to the appropriate bus to find our accommodations. We are staying in a delightful private apartment not far from the Vatican. Tonight we're planning to head out near the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps where we will find a place to have a nice relaxing dinner. Pasta and vino will be involved. Guaranteed.

No bags yet, but our faithful travel agent has been, and is, in touch with someone she knows at British Airways. Hopefully we'll get some good news -- or at least news -- soon.